The Angelito I is a 70ft ¨tourist superior¨ Galapagos yacht that hosts 16 passengers in double-bunk rooms (with private bathrooms) and is run by a crew of 8 (Captain, Cook, waiter/barman, mechanic, 2 sailors, cabin boy/cook’s helper, cabin-girl-in-training- all residents of Puerto Ayora). We also had along an excellent bilingual naturalist guide named Efraìn. I was late for the boat. Whereas everyone else flew directly from Quito or Guayaquil to meet Efraín at the airport in Baltra, I was already on the islands and had to get from Puerto Ayora across Santa Cruz Island to meet them. The bus left at 7am. Very late the night before I let some Brits talk me into skipping the bus and taking a taxi with them ($15) at the last possible minute. Bad idea. They were late, then had to get to the super-mercado to pick up some rum for their cruise on a different (very budget) boat, then had to pick up another friend at a hostel. When I finally arrived at the airport, everyone else was already on the ship, and one sort of frantic-looking crew member was walking around the airport calling out “¿Angelito?”

But I made it onboard, along with 15 other people of all shapes, sizes, and ages from Switzerland, Italy, Canada, Norway, Holland/Greece, the UK, Oakland CA, Long Island, and of course, Minnesota. It comes down to this: by the end of day eight the mother/daughter team from Norway was by far the tannest, followed by the young women from Italy. They worked hard for this, spending many hours lying in the sun atop the forward deck. Amongst the remaining amateurs, the hilarious retired couple from Holland/Greece came next, although a lack of discretion in applying sunscreen lent a decidedly rosy hue to their “tanned” hides. The Brits, Canadians, and Americans fell in last, varying between pasty, crispy, and ¨pretty tan for a bunch of gringos”. I believe that I, being Norwegian by heritage, made a respectable showing and will claim first place amongst the native English speakers. (Those of you who were on the boat may weigh in with your opinion below). Continue reading →

There is a very strong movement amongst Los Indìgenas in Ecuador against the ratification of the free trade agreements (TLC) with the US. They are fighting for their lives, afraid that if barriers to international trade and investment are lifted, big multinational/US companies will buy off all agricultural land and rights and the traditional subsistence farming and small market life of the campesinos will be destroyed. A particulary strong group, CONAIE (The Confederation of Indigenous Nationalities) has been openly challenging the presidency of Alfredo Palacio, demanding transparency and a national referendum on the TLC, and threatening a massive uprising if the agreements are ratified without their participation. Stakes is high. Over the last few weeks, CONAIE and other groups have staged strikes throughout the Sierra (mountain) provinces, shutting down all major roads, including the panamerican highway, for days at a time.

Due to the strikes, I was stuck in Baños for over a week. No one could get in, no one could get out. When I did manage to get back to Quito, the streets were full of national police in riot gear. Tensions were running high. Hunger strikers were camped out in the center of the Old City. (I was staying on a third floor terrace in an old decrepit hostel overlooking much of this, for $2.50 per night- but that is another story) It seemed like things could get hot. The strikes were preventing me from getting out of the country by bus. I decided to bite the very expensive bullet and spend a couple weeks away from the madness- in the Galapagos islands. (Pinnacle Rock from Bartolomè Island pictured left, marine iguana above)
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